Ermitage L'Orée, Maison M. Chapoutier 2021

A refined, textural and vibrant Ermitage white with so much restrained power. There is a saltiness here. Dried lemons, quince peel, grilled almonds, white peaches, wet stones, wild herbs and white flowers mingle successively on the nose. It’s medium-bodied yet it has a gigantic dimension. It’s all contained, restrained and funneled into the precise, highly textural and tense palate. Succulent, with baked lemon character and a long, long finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

Leading off the three single vineyard Marsanne releases, the 2021 Ermitage De L'Orée comes mostly from the Les Murets lieu-dit and was aged 12 months in 80% demi-muids, with just 15% being new. It has a beautiful nose of white flowers, stone fruits, quince, and some obvious chalky minerality. It reminds me slightly of the 2012 (though the vintages are nothing alike) and is medium to full-bodied, has a round, supple texture, beautiful balance, and a great finish. It's a brilliant effort, particularly given the vintage.

Hints of honeyed peaches join ripe apricot and melon on the nose of Chapoutier's superb 2021 Ermitage de l'Orée. As always, it's 100% Marsanne from the clay soils of the Les Murets lieu-dit. Medium to full-bodied, it's ripe and succulent, with a long, briny and refreshing finish. It may be closing down by now, so try to hold off opening a bottle until around 2030—or allow several hours for decanting.