Ermitage L'Orée, Maison M. Chapoutier 2009

There are 477 cases of the light gold-colored 2009 Ermitage Cuvee de l'Oree, which I would be happy to insert in a blind tasting against the world's greatest dry white wines, including Montrachet. The famous gout de petrol is there along with hints of citrus oil, wet steel, crushed rocks, quince, white currants, anise and honeysuckle. Very full, with off-the-charts intensity, this wine was fashioned from yields of 13 hectoliters per hectare (which is financial suicide) from 90 to 100-year old Marsanne vines. The result is an amazingly concentrated white wine that should drink well for 50+ years.