Dom Perignon 1998

The 1998 Dom Perignon comes across as somewhat two-dimensional and lacking the sheer cut of the 2000. There is plenty of ripeness in the fruit, but not quite the definition and verve of the finest vintages. This looks to be a relatively early-drinking Dom Perignon. Geoffroy adds that the estate may have waited a bit too long to pick certain parcels in 1998. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.

A stronger vintage than expected, the 1998 Dom Perignon exhibits aromas and flavors of lemon oil, orange rind, and brioche in a medium-bodied, zesty, rich, moderately intense style. It is far superior to either the 1993 or 1992.

An elegant but austere wine that is almost as reticent as the ’96 with pure citrus and floralaromas that continue onto the crisp and still very tight medium-bodied flavors that are beautifully precise and impressivelydelineated on the gorgeously long finish. This is a long way from being ready and I wouldn’t touch a bottle for another 5 to 7years. 94/2013+

Quite unlike the relatively tight, austere 1996 (which should probably be kept and drunk after the 1998), this cuvée is extraordinarily open and ripe already - it hits the palate with such force it is easy to confuse its ripeness with sweetness but then, in Dom P style, it tightens up immensely and finished with great race and refreshing dryness. The nose initially suggests something headily fragrant - lilies perhaps - but then develops in the glass to be much meatier and denser. But it took a glass 24 hours to develop the tight-knit, bready autolysis that is characteristic of most Dom Pérignon vintages, which suggests to me that this wine, while being super-welcoming, will also have a very long life ahead of it.