Doisy Védrines 2009

By the standards of some of the 2009 Sauternes, this is something of a wall flower, partly because of a little too much free sulphur dioxide. But when that disappears in the glass, the wine reveals its understated charms: grapefruit, a hint of orange peel and fresh acidity allied to 145 grams of residual sugar and the faintest hint of tropical fruit. 10+ years.

The opposite style (as always) of Barsac than Doisy-Daëne, slightly less pale, heavier pear and apricot aromas, rounder, more oily texture, great length too, less harmonious finish but great stuff for the ageing.

The 2009 Doisy-Vedrines exceeded my expectations under blind conditions. It is usually seen as a less refined Barsac predisposed to richness and viscosity, but the 2009 exudes far more tension and elegance than I anticipated. It has a perfumed, floral bouquet with scents of dried honey, melted wax, lemon curd and a touch of lemon thyme. It is beautifully defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with beautiful balance and precision. There is real grace and tension in this Sauternes: very focused and precise though with patently a lot of botrytis towards the mellifluous finish. This is a wonderful Doisy-Vedrines. Drink now-2035+

This is comparatively timid on the nose, giving very little away at the moment despite rigorous coaxing. But the palate is very promising, very well balanced, very focused with a fine citrus attack on the entry, fanning out towards an apricot, white peach and lime tinged finish that shows a great deal of unctuous honeyed fruit on the finish. This is an exuberant Doisy-Vedrines that yearns to offer pleasure.