Côte Rôtie La Landonne, Etienne Guigal 2004

One of the most elegant and ready-to-drink la Landonnes in the past 10-12 years is the 2004 Cote Rotie la Landonne. Already perfumed and complex, with beautiful smoked beef, rose petals, forest floor and sweet dark fruits, it almost has a Pinot Noir-like elegance and seamlessness. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and with nicely integrated acidity, drink it anytime over the coming decade.

Not surprisingly, the 2004 Cote Rotie La Landonne has the densest ruby/purple color, more structure than its two siblings, with scorched earth, roasted meat, and truffle and asphalt notes. Layered, rich, and backward, it requires 2-3 years of cellaring and should last 15 or more years.

A gorgeous nose of crushed plum and Turkish coffee gives way to a plushly textured palate of warm fig, mocha, fruitcake and mesquite. Still a touch taut, but pure on the finish, with fine-grained tannins and a mouthwatering minerality. Drink now through 2023

Dark purple. Hugely aromatic, utterly seductive bouquet of kirsch, blackcurrant, olive, grilled meat and fresh flowers. Bitter cherry and violet pastille flavors pack a major punch, with slow-building tannins adding structure. Became slowly brighter with air, picking up spiced plum and cocoa flavors and finishing with supple tannins and an endless progression of dark berry qualities. "This always needs the most oxygen of these wines," Guigal noted.