Côte Rôtie, Domaine Jean-Paul Jamet 2017

Starting with the two 2017s, these are both brilliant, brilliant wines. The base 2017 Côte Rôtie reminds me of the 1991 and is a massive, deep, totally thrilling wine that does everything right. A huge nose of black fruits, olive tapenade, smoked meats, pepper, and graphite all emerge from this full-bodied, powerful, muscular wine from this estate. Jean-Paul commented that it was almost too much of a good thing (he thought the same about the 1991 on release as well) but trust me, this is liquid gold. Full-bodied, structured and tannic, it’s going to need a decade of cellaring to shed some baby fat but is a legendary wine in the making.

Elegant, perfumed, floral nose. This is generous, fresh and beguilingly complex already. It's dark and brooding but brimming with fruits, spices, flowers, a touch of smoke and graphite with a remarkably mineral, salty finish. Serious, but beautiful.Drinking Window 2020 - 2036

Restrained at first, with violet and iron and black fruit – it's there, but you have to sniff for it. Peppery palate with blackberry fruit, dried meat and black olive. Dense and youthful, with long, long fruit concentration and medicinal herbs too. Too young by a decade, it seems! Fine, furry tannins and bright acid. Reflects the concentration and stature of the vintage.