Côte Rôtie Belle Hélène, Domaine Stéphane Ogier 2010

The 2010 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene is perfection. In this vintage, Ogier cut back the barrel aging time from 32 months in largely new oak casks to 18 months. Ogier's remarkable flexibility depending on vintage conditions and the quality of the fruit is admirable. He thinks this may be the greatest bottle of wine he has ever made, and it's hard to disagree. An inky/purple color is followed by notes of pen ink, graphite, forest floor, licorice and abundant black and blue fruits. There is little evidence of new oak because of the extravagant richness and wealth of ripe fruit. The tannins, acidity, alcohol and wood are perfectly integrated into this exceptional wine. It will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring and keep for 25-30+ years.

Densely packd, with a while to go before unwinding fully, this features a core of fig, blackberry and plum pate de fruit notes held in check by a thick wall of smoldering tobacco and charcoal accents. Loamy in feel, with cut and precision driving the finish, this delivers details of iron and black tea throughout. Best from 2017 through 2035.