Corton Charlemagne, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey 2018

A tensile, racy wine—two-thirds from Pernand-Vergelesses, one-third from Aloxe-Corton—the 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with scents of white flowers, orange oil, buttery pastry and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, it's chiseled and saline, with impressive cut and grip.

Two thirds En Charlemagne, one third Languettes, high up in Aloxe. Purchased grapes but they do much of the vineyard work. Pale fresh colour. Lively nose, racy, no especial depth. Starts quietly, but there is a burst of concentration at the back. Interesting aftertaste with a touch of liquorice.