Corton Charlemagne, Louis Latour 2017

This has attractive notes of wet chalk with bread dough and a swathe of ripe peaches. Nuances of citrus, too. The palate has great weight and depth with a very assertive, long and seamless drive. Classic Corton power here. Wow! Drink or hold.

This youthful wine shows the expected pineapple-like spiciness buttressed by great structure and energy. Pale yellow, it’s surprisingly appealing now, despite its youthful vigour. The sumptuous richness of mature Corton-Charlemagne starts to peek through as it sits in the glass. I’m sure that will develop and become more apparent thanks to the wine’s impeccable balance and underlying crystalline structure. It was still fresh and pure the next night after being opened and refrigerated. 2027-2040

The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is performing well in bottle, mingling hints of citrus oil, green apple and pear with notes of warm bread and fresh pastry in a pretty bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, muscular and concentrated, this is a powerful but lively rendition of Latour's emblematic white. Drink 2020-2033.

Full vigourous bright lemon with just a touch of green. There is certainly some biscuit from the barrel here. 100% new wood, a little bit of custardy texture too, it is just at the back that the full stony feel shows up. Racy, yet ripe, this has the makings of a fine Corton Charlemagne.