Coddington Chardonnay, Kumeu River 2019

The 2019 Coddington Chardonnay remains as composed as ever, with nary a hair out of line, and is slowing down for no one. The wine today, six years from its harvest, feels complete, powerful and very long, with roasted peaches, white chocolate, preserved citrus rind, fennel and clove. None of these characters encapsulate the inherent minerality of it, however, and for my palate, that is the highlight. This is excellent.

From the Coddingtons' vineyard. Hand-harvested, whole-bunch pressed, indigenous-yeast fermentation, 100% barrel fermentation, 100% malolactic conversion. 11 months' maturation in barrel.Quite broad on the nose and more obviously fruity (rather than savoury) than the Estate Chardonnay 2019, though it will obviously take on more subtlety with time. Pretty impressive finish to the palate, on which mandarin and passion-fruit flavours reverberate. 14% Drink 2020 – 2027

Beautifully aromatic; there is plenty of nectarine and white peach fruit. New oak definitely makes an appearance and gives an opulence and flamboyance to the palate. Great density of fruit, harnessed by succulent acidity. Some flinty/smoke on the finish. Great length. Impressive. Drink from 2025-2039. Tasted Mar 2025. ***** 5 Star Wine

A bit tighter and more linear than the Estate Chardonnay, the 2019 Coddington Chardonnay is still medium to full-bodied, but it leans more toward the pineapple-citrus side of the spectrum. Delicate hints of toasted nuts appear on the nose, while the palate offers pineapple, yellow plum and lime notes, particularly on the long, refreshing finish. 2021 - 2030.