Clos Fourtet 2021

The 2021 Clos Fourtet opens in the glass with notes of dark berries, plums, spices and subtle hints of smoked meats and toasty oak. Medium-bodied, fleshy and ample, with powdery tannins that assert themselves on the gently structured finish, this remains a strong effort, but it doesn't quite deliver the depth and plenitude it seemed to en primeur. Drink 2025-2041.

The 2021 Clos Fourtet was picked September 28 to October 15 and matured in 50% new oak. Around 20% of the vats underwent saignée. This has a powerful bouquet of dark cherries, red plum, mint and violets. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. A less concentrated Clos Fourtet, even with the bleeding, but it retains balance and displays salinity and precision on the finish. This is promising, though it might be eclipsed by the 2019 and the 2020 in the long term. Still, I can see this maturing in style. (13.5% alcohol)

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2021 Clos Fourtet needs a lot of swirling to unlock notes of black cherry preserves, ripe blueberries, and violets, followed by hints of cracked black pepper and star anise. Medium-bodied, the palate is tightly wound with loads of delicate black fruit and spicy nuances, framed by ripe, rounded tannins, finishing long and fragrant. Yields were 34 hl/ha and the blend is 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Cabernet Franc. It is aging in French oak barriques, 60% new.2026-2045

In years like 2021, you look to estates at the level of Clos Fourtet as ports in a storm, and this delivers, if not entirely escaping the influence of the vintage - a real sign of the issues, as this is such a brilliant wine, able to circumnavigate so many obstacles. You are going to find finesse and mouth watering salinity, marks of limestone and skill in the cellar, along with cool blue fruits and pumice-scrape salinity. It will fill out further during ageing, and will go the distance, but there is austerity here, and not the smile-inducing brilliance of a usual Clos Fourtet vintage. Tasted three times. A reasonable yield of 40hl/h (normal for the property) as its location again protected from frost. Clay-limestone soils. 50% new oak, 2% amphoras, saignée (for added concentration) on 20% of the vats.