Clos Fourtet 2008

Like the 2004, cool blue fruit with floral flourishes. But the 2008 has superior mid-palate concentration, revealing yet another underrated vintage that you should purchase, as it came before the 'sexier' 2009 vintage. Much like the 2003, the 2008 surprises - but for an opposite reason. It exudes admirably subtle power, the alcohol balanced by the acidity. 'This wine has superb complexity coming from a long growing season and steady maturity,' commented consultant Stephane Derenoncourt at the tasting, which he prefers to the 2009 vintage. I prefer the 2008, too, for reflecting even more the 'minerality' of the limestone plateau. 3.66pH. (Drink between 2025-2070)

The 2008 Clos Fourtet is perhaps one of the underrated vintages of that decade. Picked between October 9 and 20 at 28.5 hl/ha, it has a fragrant nose with black cherries, bergamot, black tea and cedar, all with impressive delineation. I do not find the bell pepper scent that I noted five years ago. The palate is medium-bodied with finely sculpted tannins and plenty of dark berry fruit mixed with tea leaf/bay leaf. There's impressive grip on the fresh, sapid finish. Superb. Tasted at the Clos Fourtet vertical in April 2023. (Drink between 2025-2040)

A strong effort, the 2008 was made from tiny yields of 28.5 hectoliters per hectare, and attained 14% natural alcohol. It reveals sweet licorice, black currant and blackberry fruit notes intermixed with truffle and asphalt characteristics in its pure, rich, opulent, full-bodied personality. One of the finest St.-Emilions of the vintage, it is far more accessible than the 2010 and should continue to drink well for 15-20 years.

Although oak is very obvious the richness of the fruit wins through. Fleshy damson and blackberry are well balanced by fresher raspberry all adding to the complexity. Towards the back powerful flavours enrich.