Clos de Tart, Mommessin 2009

Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2009 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has a more intense bouquet than the 2010, although it does not possess the same otherworldly sense of nuance and complexity. Yet it blossoms in the glass, attaining more and more precision, and redcurrant and cranberry scents appear mixed with rose petal and bergamot. The palate is medium-bodied with lovely balance and poise; the tannins are perhaps a little firmer and grippier than the 2010 with a symmetry on the finish that is beguiling. It actually becomes more like the 2010 on the finish so that the two wines end up more similar than you would expect, given the growing season. It is a sublime expression of the vintage.

Soft floral and toasty oak notes add breadth to the notably ripe nose, indeed this is much riper than its 2010 counterpart. Aromas of plum, chocolate and subtle spice notes merge into supple but broad-shouldered flavors that possess good energy and excellent depth on the velvety yet very firm finish that is at once supported and shaped by the solidly structured, indeed even robust finish. This is a very serious wine that was expressly built to age and it should improve for out to 20 years if kept in quality storage conditions.

Good bright, deep red. Knockout nose combines cherry liqueur, raspberry jam, mocha and clove. At once velvety and energetic, with strong acidity enlivening the intense flavors of candied red fruits. The nobility of texture and tannins here is remarkable. Finishes extremely long and scented, with late suggestions of torrefaction. This made the very promising 2010 Clos de Tart seem lean by comparison. Both vintages have pHs around 3.5 or 3.55, notes winemaker Sylvain Pitiot, who believes the 2009 will need 15 years in the cellar.