Clos de la Roche, Domaine Armand Rousseau 2015

A discreet lashing of wood easily allows the equally sauvage-suffused nose to display its array of various dark berries, earth, floral and soft underbrush scents. The energetic and beautifully well-detailed medium weight flavors exude a subtle minerality on the muscular finish that exhibits focused power and excellent persistence. This is one of those relatively rare wines that will age effortlessly for years yet should be enjoyable the entire way.

The 2015 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is excellent, opening in the glass with a complex bouquet of red and black cherry, plum preserve, grilled meat, dried ceps and espresso roast, framed by a judicious application of cedary oak (20% new). On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and firmly framed, with unusual depth and concentration for this cuvée, its ample chassis of tannins asserting itself on the firm finish.