Climens 2009

Impossible to give a mark because the final blend is not made, but the tasting of the different lots in barrel indicate that Climens will probably surpass all its great successes of the past and reach the highest imagineable level, with a perfect 2009 balance between richness and elegance.

The 2009 Climens is certainly more expressive on the nose compared to the 2010 Climens with potent honeysuckle, fresh pear and orange blossom that gently unfurl from the glass. Compared to the 2009 Rieussec for example, this is powerful but not quite as flamboyant. The palate is just fantastic, so energetic and tensile with layers of minerally, honeyed fruit laced with spice, sea salt, a touch of licorice and quince. It will be a multi-dimensional Climens that has a very long future ahead, a killer Sauternes that is going to give a great deal of pleasure over many years. Tasted April 2016.

The samples tasted in Southwold were not correct and therefore I requested a bottle to be included in this report that was tasted one week later. Suffice to say, it was completely different and much more representative. Here the 2009 displays a wonderful bouquet of honeysuckle, almond and a hint of creme caramel that is beautifully defined. The palate has a creamy entry with patently a good deal of oak that needs to be subsumed. The balance is just exquisite, the line of acidity perfectly pitched and moreover, there is that paradoxical mixture of weight and levity that makes Climens what it is. The finish blossoms with quince, almond and honey and lingers long in the mouth. This is surely destined to be a top tier Climens that will last the usual decades. Drink 2014-2050.

Picked in just two tries, 90% picked in one trie, tasting through 13 separate lots, the core components of a great Climens appear to be in place. Paying particular attention to the lots that constitute a large percentage of the blend (usually around 15%) the common themes are ones of great purity, persistency and precision. The aromatics display pure honey, minerals, occasionally a faint scent of spearmint and white peach, most with spellbinding precision. On the palate, Berenice Lurton has some stupendous lots at her disposal, with ample botrytis, ethereal definition, one or two more powerful, quite spicy lots and others that are shorter and will undoubtedly lend the blend an acidic cut. It will be a joy to taste this after bottling.