Chevalier Montrachet la Cabotte, Bouchard Père et Fils 2012

(Bouchard has been separately vinifying this parcel, which at one time was part of Montrachet, since 1992 though the first commercial release was not until 1997; Prost jokingly refers to this parcel as ""Montrachet du haute pente"", or upper slope Montrachet).A reserved nose is pure, cool and airy with its notes of spiced pear, citrus blossom and mineral reduction. There is genuinely striking intensity to the gorgeously detailed medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the driving and explosively persistent finish. This is a very powerful and concentrated effort that should offer terrific upside development potential and easily last for two decades. 94/2022+

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chevalier Montrachet la Cabotte Grand Cru from Bouchard Père & Fils has a slightly more exotic bouquet within this flight with touches of white chocolate and almond originating from the more generous and conspicuous use of new oak. It needs time to fully integrated. The palate is concentrated and lightly honeyed, the acidity nicely judged but there is a nagging feeling that it was picked a little too late, reminiscent of some of those 2006s on the finish that is missing some delineation. Returning to the glass it actually becomes more refined and elegant, with a saline tang on the finish. This must represent one of Bouchard's finest contributions to the vintage.

(30% vendange entier): Good deep red. High-toned aromas of raspberry, licorice and acidulated hard candy show an almost Beaujolais-like pungency. Savory and firm in the mouth, with a slightly bitter quality that has not yet integrated into the wine. Tannins are sweet but the finish is a bit inky. An awkward showing today.