Charmes Chambertin, Domaine Dujac 2023

The 2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very appealing bouquet, commendable purity of fruit and finely delineated hints of black cherry, raspberry and licorice. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. There's a beguiling balance and nuance here. This is a total step-up from the Combottes Premier Cru this year, with a long and quite sensual finish. Recommended. (Drink between 2027-2047)

The grapes come equally from Charmes and Mazoyères-Chambertin, though the surface area is greater in the latter. A fine deep crimson purple. The nose is full of energy with a classy ripe fruit, dark strawberry and plum, then the oak slightly takes over on the palate. No worry about that, this wine will storm on through. A very good example, ripe yet satisfying.

Light reduction is enough to push the fruit to the background. The palate impression of the medium-bodied flavors though is fresh and bright with a gorgeous, indeed silky, mouthfeel that contrasts markedly with the robust and borderline rustic finale that is very firmly structured. This is promising but be prepared to be at least moderately patient. (Drink starting 2038)