Chardonnay Estate, Giaconda 2017

Tasted beside two stylistic extremes: the rambunctious 2019 and the sleeper 2018, this 2017 Chardonnay is the balancing act between the two. While less immediately exciting in terms of stars and lights, this forsakes the pinwheels of flavor of the other two for a patient, steady, powerful outlay across the palate. It never stops. It is restrained, classy, elegant and layered, but those descriptors undersell it—they don't do the wine justice. There's struck match and preserved lemon rind on the nose, and the palate is thick with salted stone fruit, crushed rocks, campfire embers, green tea and star anise. I'm relatively speechless after tasting three vintages of this wine side by side and can only say respectfully, that we are in the presence of greatness. Hush. It's New World Chardonnay at its absolute peak.

A bold, rich and concentrated chardonnay with intense grilled-peach, lemon and flinty complexity, as well as toasted-hazelnut aromas. The palate has a very rich and powerful core of ripe fruit. Long, pithy drive to the fresh, flavorful finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap.