Chambertin, Domaine Armand Rousseau 2015

Here too there is just enough oak to mention but once again it's not really enough to impair the purity of the distinctly cool and ultra-spicy red currant, underbrush, sandalwood, lilac and plenty of earth aromas. The rich, intense and overtly muscular big-bodied flavors possess a similar level of minerality that is borderline pungent and it informs the explosively long, firm and very serious finish. This notably powerful, but not really austere effort, displays magnificent potential and if it develops its usual degree of complexity over time it should merit the upper end of my projected range. But as structured and firm as it is, I suspect that this will drink well after only 6 to 8 years of age thanks to the incredible abundance of dry extract.

Tasted blind, the 2015 Chambertin Grand Cru confirms its status as one of the wines of the vintage—and as the unequivocal highlight of Rousseau's 2015 portfolio. Aromas of sweet red-black fruits, candied peel and cedar mingle with nuances of grilled meats and raw cocoa in a complex bouquet, with a touch of oak vanillin emerging with aeration. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and immensely layered, with succulent acids, supple and fine-grained tannins and an exceptionally long finish. Despite its aromatic and textural drama, it remains controlled and quintessentially elegant. 2025 - 2050

Here too there is just enough oak to mention but once again it's not really enough to impair the purity of the distinctly cool and ultra-spicy red currant, underbrush, sandalwood, lilac and plenty of earth. The rich, intense and overtly muscular big-bodied flavors possess a similar level of minerality that is borderline pungent and it informs the explosively long, firm and very serious finish. This notably powerful effort but not really austere effort displays magnificent potential and if it develops its usual degree of complexity over time it should merit the upper end of my projected range. But as structured and firm as it is, I suspect that this will drink well after only 6 to 8 years of age thanks to the incredible abundance of dry extract.

The 2015 Chambertin Grand Cru is a monument in the making, offering up a profound bouquet of sweet red and black fruit, caramelized orange rind, smoke, grilled meat and rich spice, framed by cedary new oak. On the palate, the wine is very full-bodied, multidimensional and complete, with immense concentration, a bright line of acidity and an ample chassis of fine-grained tannins. While there's not much to choose between this and the Clos de Bèze, the Chambertin is marginally deeper, fuller-bodied and more harmonious, and it appears to have a slight edge. Cyrielle Rousseau exhorted me to score this wine with an "X"—to indicate that it should be forgotten in the cellar for two decades, and I encourage anyone lucky enough to acquire a few bottles to heed that sage advice, as the 2015's structural abundance makes it decidedly ill-fitted to near-term consumption.