Chablis Montée de Tonnerre, Patrick Piuze 2020

A real success, Piuze's 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre unfurls in the glass with aromas of orange oil, peach, pear, freshly baked bread, pastry cream and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's taut and concentrated, with racy acids and a pungently mineral finish.

This is aromatically quite similar to the Butteaux if more elegant thanks to offering more spice and floral elements. There is less concentration but more refinement to the utterly delicious middle weight flavors that are also supported by lemon-tinged acidity on the very dry, focused and lingering finale that is youthfully austere. Here too at least some patience is advised. (Drink starting 2027)