Chablis Montée de Tonnerre, Domaine William Fèvre 2020

The 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is a terrific success, unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers, confit citrus and oatmeal. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete, it's fleshy and seamless, with fine depth at the core, racy acids and a long, expansive finish. After several years where this site bore the brunt of hail and frost, Montée de Tonnerre is back with a vengeance.

Sweet spot OutstandingA cool, pure and airy nose also reflects notes of mineral reduction and citrus zest along with more prominent floral and iodine nuances. The sleek, refined and beautifully delineated middle weight flavors possess a bracing salinity on the sneaky long and well-balanced finale. Like several wines in the range, this needs to develop better depth but it is very stylish and should age effortlessly so more complexity should eventually manifest itself. Drink: 2030+

Clear light bright lemon, the spices show on the nose, which is right for this vineyard, but there is both power and discretion on hand. Not quite biscuit but there is sort of a wholemeal texture here. Brilliant wine for those who want the more powerful side of Chablis. Still a bit of stone licking at the back.

Fèvre has three parcels in Montée de Tonnerre (its purest, most mineral premier cru): Chapelot, Pied d'Aloup and Côte de Bréchain, all facing different ways. Very precise, crystalline fruits, salinity, great acidity and a long, long finish. Will age beautifully, but great now. 2022-2028