Chablis Les Clos, René et Vincent Dauvissat 2023

The 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet that is slightly less reduced than the Les Preuses at the moment. This has good intensity. It's not the most complex that I have ever tasted from Dauvissat, but this is nicely poised. The palate is very elegant and nuanced, with exquisite balance, but you really feel the weight and depth on the back palate. There's a lovely tingle of spice on the aftertaste as this lingers in the mouth. The 2023 is outstanding. (Drink between 2033-2052)

Lively pale lemon. A classical Clos bouquet with some citrus. We need to take time over this. More linear than the Preuses. The palate offers the purest white fruit, followed by a vigorous limestone finish with excellent mineral aftertaste.

This was relatively closed out of barrel – imposing and powerful, but not seductive. A year after bottling, it has blossomed into stupendous wine with notes of ripe apricot, quince, marzipan and hay. It is undoubtedly substantial, with enormous amounts of extract and just enough acidity to balance it out. 'Chewy' is how Dauvissat described it, as if one wanted a knife and fork. This is special wine, but it is far from ready to drink. Give it 15 years and drink it over the next 40 after that. (Drink between 2040-2080)