Chablis Les Clos, René et Vincent Dauvissat 2020

I generally have a slight preference for Dauvissat's Les Preuses, a preference I suspect Vincent Dauvissat shares, but the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, at least at this early stage, gets my nod as the king of the cellar—and the wine of the vintage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, fresh bread, oyster shell, white flowers and wet stones, it's full-bodied, layered and textural, with huge concentration, racy acids and a long, resonant finish.

While not quite as elegant, the restrained nose is even more floral and a bit spicier as well with its array of anise, smoke, tea, oyster shell and iodine-scented aromas. There is more size, weight and power if not the same refinement to the more evidently mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that coat the palate on the driving, balanced and youthfully austere finish. This terrific effort is also a legitimate candidate for wine of the vintage honors.

Pale lemon yellow. The nose has a tiny vegetal reduction which blows off. Fresh hay perhaps. Striking white fruit intensity, so complete, what a wealth of concentration, a wine which will give exceptional happiness in decades to come. Succulence with a hint of sucrosity. There is a huge weight of fruit then a very dry finish. The texture indicates that the grapes were fully ripe.