Chablis Les Clos, Domaine William Fèvre 2021

A discreet application of wood suffuses the restrained and beautifully layered nose of mineral reduction, iodine, tidal pool, white orchard fruit and a vague hint of phenolic character. The super-sleek, dense and intense broad-shouldered flavors possess a palate etching mouthfeel while delivering simply remarkable length on the stony, austere and very dry finale that is akin to rolling small rocks around the mouth. The intensity really builds as it sits on the palate and overall, this beauty is superb.

Aromas of orange zest, peach, oyster shells, white flowers and freshly baked bread preface the 2021 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, a full-bodied, layered and textural wine of impressive breadth and depth in this vintage, exhibiting considerable concentration and concluding with a long, electric finish. This will delight Chablis purists.

This too could be from nowhere else other than Chablis with its combination of strong mineral reduction, cool citrus, shellfish and iodine. The dense, opulent and powerful large-bodied flavors brim with dry extract that imparts a sappy texture to the lemony and massively long finish. Not surprisingly for a classic Les Clos, this super effort is very much built-to-age and a wine that I would advise not touching for at least 6 to 8 years first.

The vineyard was largely planted by William Fèvre’s father in the decade after the war. The 2021 Les Clos was made with 40% wood, but has recently been racked and assembled, so not clear. This is relatively classical with the effortlessly superior bouquet of Les Clos. A softer rounder style of fruit here. Additional intensity though behind, with a deep white fruit, liquorice and still some youthful bitters to complete. Drink from 2028-2036.