Chablis Les Clos, Domaine William Fèvre 2019

If Kimmeridgian could be distilled, it would likely smell exactly like the nose of the 2019 Les Clos with the addition of wet chalk, citrus zest and oyster shell. There is equally good delineation to the snappy, painfully intense and overtly stony large-bodied flavors that deliver superb length on the balanced finale. This elegant and classy effort is also built on a base of almost pungent minerality and a wine that should age effortlessly.

5 star wine!2ha of Les Clos were planted by Maurice Fèvre between 1947 and 1952, a time when much of the hillside was bare. The 2019 yields just 25 h/ha and had recently been racked, so had not fallen clear. The bouquet is immense. Keep sniffing, and it keeps offering more. This year Les Clos has a dimension over and above all the others. Not just density, but amazing depth. A little touch of bitters too, which we like at this stage. Such great length! Tasted: July 2020