Chablis Les Clos, Domaine William Fèvre 2018

Once again the nose is both fresh and ripe and while it's not quite as elegant and airy as the Côte Bouguerots there is every bit as much classic Chablis character. There is a really lovely mouth feel to the sappy large-bodied flavors thanks to the copious quantity of dry extract that also serves to buffer the exceptionally firm acid spine on the powerful, punchy and beautifully complex finale. This beautiful effort, along with the Preuses, would appear to be the most promising wines in the range in 2018 and they are among the best wines of the vintage.

The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is another obvious success, mingling aromas of citrus and citrus confit with hints of beeswax, peach and pear in an inviting bouquet. Full-bodied, muscular and layered, it's textural and fleshy, with a deep and tightly wound core, racy acids and a chalky finish. This is a fine effort that will improve with bottle age, but it is a bit more front-loaded out of the gates than the very fine 2017 rendition.

The holding comprises 2.5 ha planted between 1947 and 1952 and all still in great condition. Pale lemon colour. The nose is restrained but you are immediately in the presence of majesty. This has the most volume of all but is not the easiest to see. It has more flesh than Les Preuses, along with a different but equal mineral vitality to Côte Bouguerots The two together make something exceptional! Tasted: May 2019Full information

A very ripe, dense Chablis, yet it maintains energy and focus. Crushed-stone and mineral highlights. Full-bodied and formed with a solid core of fruit and energy. Drink or hold.