Chablis Les Clos, Domaine William Fèvre 2005

In contrast to the relative expressiveness of most of this group, the Les Clos is backward, reserved and very tight, revealing only glimpses of white flower, oyster shell and an airy marine influence that can also be found on the intense, pure and astonishingly precise flavors that possess another dimension relative to all of the other '05s with the exception of the Preuses. Class in a glass as they say and while presently tighter than a drum with an exceptionally dry finish, this has the material and balance to age for years.

Pale, green-tinged color. Pure but subdued nose hints at minerals and lime, with flint and quinine emerging with aeration. Penetrating and powerful, with superb cut and grip (Fevre's holding high on the hill always gives a youthfully tight, fresh style). Wonderfully silky and suave grand cru, finishing with great palate-coating dusty stone and uncanny mineral persistence.