Chablis Les Clos, Christian Moreau 2023

The 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a neutral, stony nose that is outperformed by the Valmur this year. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Fresh clementines intermix with gooseberry and red apple notes. It is quite peppery and admirably persistent toward the finish. Give this a couple of years in bottle.

Blended last week. A glowing lemon and lime colour. A complex and classy nose, with a little touch of coconut on top of the crushed oyster shells. Floral too but not honeyed. Good grip to this, with the requisite tension, the oak not fully blended in yet, making for a butterier finish. Drink from 2027-2036

Much more composed and less showy than the Vaillons Cuvée Guy Moreau. Tastes so elemental. All chalk and cryptocrystalline tension, zimming with lime, white-stone dust clouds of minerality. Like a harp. Something quite aerial about this; silvery, fine. But also fiercely focused. Very, very exciting. Drink: 2028-2043

An expressive and exuberant white showing aromas of pears, sliced green apples and chalk. Round, saline and medium- to full-bodied on the palate, with good chalky notes and a long finish that’s slightly creamy at the end. Drink or hold.