Certan de May 2009

A bruising, black/purple-hued, full-bodied wine, the 2009 Certan de May displays notes of charcuterie, smoked game, herbs, black truffles, roasted meats, cassis and black cherries. This backward, robustly-styled Pomerol is loaded with tannin as well as extract. Give this full, powerful 2009 a decade of cellaring and drink it over the following 30+ years. I'm sure it is not better than the immortal 1982 Certan de May.

Tasted at JP Moueix. This is a Pomerol property flying under the radar at the moment and the nose here is marvellous: beautifully defined with exquisite blackberry, briary and minerals. The palate is medium-bodied with real tension and focus, almost understated on the entry, very harmonious with superb delineation towards the finish that is inflected with hints of bay leaf and thyme. This is a great 2009 from a vineyard that is really on song at the moment. Tasted April 2010.

I love the dark fruit and underlying aromas of fresh herbs and dried flowers. Full-bodied, with a lovely silky texture and a clean, fresh, fruity and delicate finish.

Dark purplish crimson. Heady, sweet, intense nose. Polished and very savoury. Well mannered. Rather old style but with the extra ripeness of the vintage. Chewy end. A bit austere at the moment but there is integrity underneath. Very interesting on the finish. It grows towards the end. Date tasted 30th March 2010. Drink 2017-2030.