CDP Les Cailloux, Domaine André Brunel - Domaine les Cailloux 1998

Andre Brunel's traditional cuvee of 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape has reached full maturity. Some amber and orange at the edge offer evidence of that, in addition to the complex notes of garrigue, new saddle leather, pepper, herbs, and sweet black cherries. The wine is round, generous, medium to full-bodied, but beginning to just slightly lose some punch and fruit intensity in the finish. At its best, Brunel's old-vine cuvee, the Cuvee Centenaire, is a wine that flirts with perfection from time to time. However, I have also had bottles with noticeable funkiness/shoe polish notes (acetic) that are almost inexplicable given the showing of pristine bottles.

Full bright, deep red. Knockout, pinot-like aromas of strawberry, cherry, blood orange and flowers, complicated by a smoky minerality and a building peppery quality. Wonderfully elegant and silky wine, with perfectly integrated acidity giving it noteworthy energy. This saturates the palate without leaving any sense of undue weight. Showed some superripe notes as it opened in the glass, but without losing its shape or grip. My fellow tasters were shocked at the quality of this "basic" bottling, which could be purchased for less than $25 upon release. (More recent vintages have similarly offered terrific value.)

Les Cailloux's regular cuvee has evolved into a blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, and 5% miscellaneous varietals aged both in barrel and foudre. The classic 1998 represents a blend of traditional and progressive winemaking techniques. A southern Rhone nose of garrigue (the Provencal earthy/herb aroma), pepper, wood spice, and gorgeously sweet black cherry and plum-like flavors are intense as well as alluring. Once past the bouquet, this dark ruby/garnet-colored wine offers a full-bodied, powerful, layered impression, with impressive levels of glycerin, ripe fruit, and extract. Tannin is present, but it is sweet. This 1998 will easily drink well for 10-12 years

A stunning regular cuvee from one of CDP's most talented wine producers, Andre Brunel, the 1998 Les Cailloux appears to be a clone of the 1990, although Brunel thought it was more like a blend of 1989 and 1990. The wine's dark plum/purple colour is accompanied by a sweet, intense nose of roasted herbs, black fruits, kirsch, and spice box scents. There is considerable glycerin, fat and body as well as a low acid, alchogholic, concentrated, heady finish. This sumptous CDP will drink gorgeously well young, yet keep for 10-15 years. Readers should note that there will be a 1998 Cuvee Centenaire (produced from 100+ year old Grenache vines) but in both June and September, it was still fermenting! Brunel feels it will be as prodigious as his fabulous 1929, 1990 and 1995 Cuvee Centenaires.