CDP Cuvee XXL, Domaine de la Janasse 2007

Another insanely good wine that’s a legend in the making is the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape XXL, which is almost all Grenache (there’s a splash of Mourvèdre) that spent three years in foudre and barrels before being bottled. Offering a port-like bouquet of blackberry jam, beef blood, black licorice and roasted herbs, it hits the palate with an incredible amount of fruit and texture yet always stays balanced, fresh and lively, with a finish that just won’t quit. This decadent, heady, layered and just about over the top beauty won’t be for everyone (and I’ve had bottles state side that showed more stewed and evolved characteristics), but it’s a singular, heavenly bottle of wine.

A curiosity is the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape XXL, a blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre that fermented for nearly three years. Bottled earlier this year, it reminds me of some of the Cuvee Speciales that Henri Bonneau made, particularly the 1990 and 1998. One would think it might taste like an Amarone, but in fact, it doesn't. It is a very thick, unctuously-textured, over-the-top wine with unbelievable concentration that is technically dry, even though the alcohol level is extraordinarily high. Only 1,400 bottles were produced. Several California Rhone Ranger winemakers told me they thought this was the greatest Chateauneuf du Pape they ever tasted, which didn't really surprise me because it is a singularly great wine, although I am sure some people will look at the alcohol level and simply dismiss it as being out of balance. It has phenomenal balance and is a rich, massive wine that in 20 or so years, will be considered to be a legend of Chateauneuf du Pape.

To be bottled in February, 2010, the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape XXL is a blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre. It reminds me of what Henri Bonneau's utterly perfect 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins tasted like at two years of age. It has all the characteristics of the Janasse Vieilles Vignes in addition to a slightly later harvest and riper character. It gives the impression of having residual sweetness, but that is not the case as the appellation of Chateauneuf du Pape will declassify any wine with more than 0.3 grams per liter of residual sugar. The glycerin level is high, and the alcohol content must be around 16.5% as this offering is incredibly massive, rich, and obviously meant for long-term aging. I can't wait to taste it out of bottle. There are only two demi-muids, which works out to about 2,000 bottles, so the lucky few who have an opportunity to purchase it, should not pass it up.