CDP Combe des Fous, Clos Saint-Jean 2007

The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous (meaning "Valley of the Fools"), which comes from a specific vineyard known as Les Combes, was cropped at extremely low yields of 20-25 hectoliters per hectare. Atypically for a Chateauneuf du Pape, it contains a high percentage of Vaccarese (10%), along with 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Cinsault. The Grenache was aged in tank, and the other varietals spent time in old small barrels or demi-muids. Explosive aromatics include spring flowers, boysenberries, blueberries, black raspberries, graphite, and charcoal. A powerful wine with great depth, full body, and an endless finish, it is exquisitely pure with not a rough edge to be found. It is the equivalent of liquid haute couture. The Musigny of the southern Rhone, it possesses extraordinary aromatics followed by a wine with the texture, length, and multilayered mouthfeel that are the stuff of dreams. Looking back at my tasting notes, the first thing I wrote was "whoa!" Deep plum/purple to the rim, this wine should evolve for 20-25 years, but it is already remarkably accessible. The vintage's freshness as evidenced by the lack of any excessive heat and cool nights has given an aromatic singularity to the 2007s that is largely unprecedented in my tasting experience.

This has gorgeous aromas and mouthfeel, with freshly brewedMocha Java, warm fig and incense notes up front, followed bydark, macerated currant and cherry fruit. The long finish is velvetyand suave, with hints of mesquite, loam, licorice snap andsweet earth that just sail on. Best from 2010 through 2030. FromFrance.

A wine flirting with perfection, the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and the rest Cinsault and Vaccarese. This utterly profound, amazing tour de force in winemaking exhibits an opaque ruby/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of grilled meats, roasted herbs, figs, plums, black currants, and kirsch. Sensational purity, magnificent body, a finish that lasts over 60 seconds, and mind-boggling levels of complexity and intensity result in as great a Chateauneuf du Pape as one is ever likely to taste. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025+.