Calon Ségur 1982

Like Certan de May, I bought this in both half and 750 ml bottles. Only recently have the half bottles reached full maturity, and the 750 ml remains a massive, backward wine for long-term aging. A dense, opaque garnet color is followed by notes of roasted meats, herbs, black currants, incense, and damp earth. Full-bodied, still extremely tannic (sweet but noticeable tannins), rich, and backward, where perfectly stored, this 1982 will last for another 50 years. The estate has always compared it to their 1947, which is still a vibrant wine, and the 1982 should be just as profound. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2040.

At age 40, the 1982 Calon-Ségur remains a powerful, muscular wine that still takes several hours to open up in the decanter. Exhibiting aromas of sweet blackcurrants, earthy undergrowth and pencil shavings, it's rich, full-bodied and concentrated, with imposing reserves of firm, powdery tannin underpinned by its deep core of fruit. This old school, unreconstructed claret, which I imagine was forbiddingly austere for much of the first three decades of its life, is a wine the likes of which simply aren't produced in contemporary Bordeaux.

This wine has just begun to reveal its true personality, having under-performed for most of its life. In half-bottles it is close to maturity, but in 750ml bottles, it still needs another 4-5 years of cellaring (at least those that were purchased in pristine condition and stored properly). The colour is a medium dark ruby with a garnet centre. The multidimensional nose offers up notes of dried herbs, sweet damp earth, espresso, black cherries, prunes, cedar, iodine, and iron. Extremely complex aromatically, this full-bodied, still tannic, concentrated, old style Bordeaux has two to three decades of life remaining. It is impressive, but clearly from the old-school of Bordeaux winemaking with rustic tannin, but huge depth and body. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2035.

After a bad period the 1982 is finally revealing its true personality.The wine had an opulent, unctuous texture thickness from cask that reminds me of the estate's legendary 1947. Those characteristics are beginning to emerge again. This is a large-scale, super-concentrated wime which requires at least sixty minutes of breathing after decanting.It exhibits a dense, plummy color. The intense nose of roasted coffee, sweet, jammy fruity, leather, and spice that is followed by a full-bodied, tannic wine. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2030