Brunello di Montalcino, Fuligni 2016

Dark, inward and intense, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is a towering effort that will thrill collectors for many years to come. It arrives in waves, first black fruits evolving to red, then sage and earthy minerals, followed by brown spice and, finally, hints of tobacco. Youthfully dense, velvety and in no hurry to unfurl the complex web of fruit, minerals and tannins found within, this instead leaves you guessing at what’s to come. That said, there’s perfect symmetry here, along with the combination of structure and primary intensity to guarantee many years of positive maturation. Hints of licorice, currant and baker’s chocolate linger long. This is simply gorgeous. Drink 2026-2040.

Aromas of cedar, sandalwood and black cherries with some plums. Full-bodied and very chewy with lots of tannins and a fluid fruit base behind it all, providing such beauty and precision. Real purity and focus. Give this two or three years to come together. Try after 2022, but this has a long life ahead.

Enticingly fragrant, this opens with heady aromas of rose, violet, new leather, truffle and balsamic whiffs of camphor. Vibrant and focused, the chiseled, elegant palate is all about finesse, delivering bright red cherry, orange zest, licorice and white pepper framed in taut, refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps it superbly balanced and fresh. It’s already drinking beautifully but hold for even more complexity. Drink 2024–2036.

Healthy mid ruby. Closed, brooding with cherry and cranberry with minerally notes. Iron with a suggestion of orange skin and oak. Embryonic, poised cherry and raspberry palate but with real concentration and with a long vein of acidity running through it. Very long and transparent, with finely-chiselled, long tannins and amazing depth. Drink 2024-2038.