Brane Cantenac 2011

One of the stars of the Margaux appellation (and that's not the back handed compliment it might seem in 2011), this is a typically graceful wine from Henri Lurton: forward and sweetly scented with coffee bean, savoury tannins and gentle, refreshing fruit flavours. A wine that caresses rather than bludgeons the palate. 8+ years.

Fine fragrance of Cabernet cassis fruit, fine middle sweetness, fine natural concentration behind the lifted, elegant facade, great potential complexity. Drink 2015-2030.

Made in a sexy, perfumed style, this 2011 seduces the taster with its wonderful aromatics of blue, red and black fruits, flowers, damp earth and forest floor. With excellent to outstanding concentration, fresh acidity and velvety tannins, this plush Margaux is atypically opulent/flamboyant for the vintage. Drink it over the next 12-15 years.

Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château, the 2011 Brane-Cantenac is a blend of 37% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 56.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and a pinch of Carmenère. It has a more attractive bouquet than the 2012, demonstrating more complexity and fruit intensity: blackberry and raspberry, a touch of cedar and tobacco thrown into the mix. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, the oak beautifully interwoven into the brambly red berry fruit, gently building with a hint of spice and dry tobacco on the finish. There is just a tad more substance than the 2012, yet it remains elegant, and given the vintage it is sophisticated compared to others this vintage. Tasted April 2015.

The Brane Cantenac is a blend of 37% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 0.5% Carmenere and 56.5% Cabernet Sauvignon cropped from 9th to 19th September for the Merlot and 19th to 27th Cabernet Sauvignon, the Carmenere on the 10th October (the first time it has been promoted to the Grand Vin, so well done vines.) As usual, the sample needs several minutes to find its composure in the glass. Eventually, it finds its even keel with attractive wild berries, graphite and crushed stone, very crisp and well defined as if there are spaces to be filled between the aromas (this will be done during the élevage.) The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannins. There is a touch of unresolved oak whilst the finish is a little pinched at the moment with a slightly attenuated finish. As usual, I bet this will taste far superior after five years, but I wonder whether there is just enough substance here? Wait and see, but I appreciate the style. Tasted April 2012.

Sweet tobacco with blueberries and spices. Full body, with round tannins and a straightforward finish. Nicely done.