Bonnes Mares, Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier 2017

This is also lightly reduced and it's enough to blur the underlying nuances of the nose save for a whiff of herbal tea. Otherwise there is excellent power and drive to the intense and even more muscular broad-shouldered flavors that culminate in an explosive, dusty and very, very tightly wound finish. Despite the excellent size and weight, this remains beautifully proportioned and should age effortlessly for several decades. In a word, terrific.

Roumier's 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has turned out beautifully, clearly surpassing its 2018 counterpart to my palate. Unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of wild berries, peonies, plums, warm spices and orange rind, framed by a creamy patina of new oak, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a layered, concentrated core that's girdled by succulent acids and underpinned by ripe, powdery tannins. It's reminiscent of a more muscular version of Roumier's superb 2007.