Bâtard Montrachet, Etienne Sauzet 2023

The 2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a little more "control" compared with the Bienvenues. Its bouquet contains crushed limestone and flinty scents intertwined with Granny Smith and sea spray notes. The palate is supremely well balanced with real depth and tension throughout. It's intense and perfectly spiced, with a sense of gravitas on the finish that lingers long in the mouth. This is a very capable Bâtard-Montrachet that will give 20 years of pleasure. (Drink between 2027-2050)

More lemon in the colour after a pale Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. The bouquet is more forthcoming too, though in an elegant way rather than a massive Bâtard. Concentrated lemon and lime blossom, with a suggestion of copious orchard fruit below. This swells magically on the palate, with a little oak to support the flesh. Does it quite work, this vineyard with Benoît’s style? Probably and there is certainly a great deal more going on. Drink from 2030-2038.