Barolo Cicala, Poderi Aldo Conterno 2020

Dense garnet in the glass. On the nose it’s restrained, with cinnamon, sweet violets, cherry pits and a balsamic whiff. The attack is full, with a dense palate that’s powerful yet velvety. The crisp, refined tannins are long. with deliciously integrated acidity. Great balance and concentration.

This amazing site, situated on limestone, clay and iron, has a directness and focus that is unique in my experience. Introverted, gruff, bristling with intent (and a degree of anguish), but waiting for the signal to proceed, 2020 Cicala is holding itself back, with mighty self-control, for fear of bursting from the blocks like a berserker and upsetting decades of diligent character building. The energy is incredible, and the latent power and deep mineral core are sensational, and the fruit sets about its job of organising itself, little by little, into a coherent and well mannered wine. This might take a few years, but the building blocks are here to fashion a remarkable wine that shows that even though we think we know this vineyard’s character, unlimited facets and combinations of flavour are born here, and not one is the same. Long may this continue.