Angel Flower Pinot Noir, Pyramid Valley Vineyards 2020

A hint of reduction on the nose blows off to reveal lovely aromas of fresh red cherries, strawberries, rosemary and violet. Then orange peel and fresh mint. Changes all the time. Medium- to full-bodied with silky, tightly knit tannins. Juicy and fresh on the palate. Showing complexity and verve with subtle intensity and length. So pretty right now. This will age nicely. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Mid crimson. Very slightly smoky, savoury, smelling tangy, of small-berried fruit. Little bit floral. Beautifully scented because the site is so cool. Much more savoury than I expected. Wild brambly fruit, fruits of the forest. Super-fine tannins. So dry. Compact texture. A long line of purity and then a feathery finish. Great persistence. More stone-dust than on the Earth Smoke. A dry stony aftertaste. A gentle touch to the tannins – almost dusty they are so fine-grained. Beautifully integrated already.

Wow, wow, wow. The label depicts yarrow or angel flower – found growing wild in the vineyard. And yet, ‘angel flower’ could be a two-word descriptor for this sensational wine. Coming from a north-facing slope, with a little more clay and a little less limestone, this is an earlier ripening vineyard, and I found the nose captivating. While this is a Pinot through and through, my mind kept giving me Barbaresco flashbacks, such is the exoticism and complexity of the perfume. This wine has the definition of an ‘aerial nose’, which might sound trite, but it almost immediately becomes part of the air above and around the glass and it seems not to fade. It grows, and you can taste it by inhaling it – this is a remarkably aromatic wine. The fruit and flower notes are captivating, and in common with the Chardonnays, the texture is epic, ethereal, super-long and refined. The acidity teases at your cheeks, and the stunning tannins rake the palate into purple and red furrows. With less than 10% new oak and all large formats employed, this is a genuine Pyramid Valley terroir wine and one I imagine Mike would be incredibly proud of because it captures this site and his vision to perfection. Steve tells me that Claudia continues to act as an ambassador for these wines, and I imagine that 2020 Angel Flower must fill her with an incredible sense of pride.