Selosse Les Carelles, Champagne Jacques Selosse N.V.

The brighter, more focused side of Chardonnay screams out of the glass in the NV (2008) Le Mesnil sur Oger Les Carelles. Here the flavors are distinctly high-toned, with plenty of citrus peel, white pepper, smoke and slate. Vivid and finely sculpted throughout, with a slightly reductive quality, the Mesnil remains tightly wound and in need of time in bottle. There is an implosive energy that is just waiting to emerge fully. When it does, the Mesnil will be utterly captivating. Actually, it already is. Disgorged February 17, 2015. Dosage is 2 grams/liter. Drink 2018-2028.

The NV Extra-Brut Grand Cru Les Carelles is gorgeous. Deep layers of ripe pears, dried apricots, spices, flowers, hazelnuts, pastry, smoke and honey are woven into a rich tapestry of inimitable class and elegance. This release of Les Carelles reveals tons of nuance and character, with less of the heaviness of last year's version. Although the Carelles stands apart from Selosse's wines from Avize, it is really the sprit of Selosse that comes through most loudly here rather than what might be called the essence of Mesnil character. Clean, mineral notes on the finish provide the clearest Mesnil signature. This is a gorgeous wine, especially if given some time in the glass. Disgorged April 13, 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015.