Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2004

In the event, his fears were unfounded, as the warmth of September proved to have been sufficient for an outstanding 2004 Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl. Mint, honey, caramelized celery root in the nose segue into a palate of creamy richness, considerable delicacy, and only subtle sweetness (from 14.5 grams residual sugar), dominated by alkaline, saline, marine, iodine-inflected mineral elements. This is the most remarkably juicy, refreshing, and indeed delicate of the lot of Humbrecht '04 Gewurztraminer, and its finish is among the most perfumed, lip-smacking in fruit yet also most thought-provoking in its mysterious mineral and animal aspects of any of Humbrecht's 2004s. I would not disagree with him when he characterizes its balance as "perfect," yet there is no doubt this balance could hold for many years if not decades, and I certainly keenly anticipate following its evolution and the additional complexity that is almost sure to come.