Chassagne Montrachet Mazures, Paul Pillot 2023

Once again there is a smoky character to the expressive nose that blends notes of white flowers, poached pear and citrus confit. As is usually the case, the middle weight flavors are not as dense as those of the straight Chassagne but they're noticeably finer with excellent delineation that is also the case with the bone-dry, chiseled and linear finish. This nicely balanced effort could use better depth so at least some aging is in order. (Drink starting 2030)

Mid lemon yellow. More reductive tension straight away, and then more than adequate flesh behind, a little citrus rind, very much more energy all the way through. Fine long mineral acidity, still on the lemon skins. Very satisfying.