Chablis Les Clos, René et Vincent Dauvissat 2022

This ripe effort displays an abundance of classic Chablis aromas of smoky mineral reduction, citrus peel, oyster shell and acacia blossom as well as just the vaguest hint of the exotic. There is terrific punch and a taut muscularity to the more mineral-driven middleweight plus flavors that exhibit focused power on the impressively long and well-balanced finale. This is the densest wine in the range in 2022 and a wine that should age accordingly. In a word, brilliant. (Drink starting 2034)

Deeper-pitched than the ethereal Preuses, the 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos exhibits aromas of ripe citrus fruits, peach, white flowers, beeswax, nutmeg and clam broth. Full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's textural and layered, with a deep and muscular core, concluding with a long, expansive finish.