Chablis Bougros Cote Bouguerots, Domaine William Fèvre 2021

Note: from a 2.2 ha parcel at the bottom section of the vineyard; even so, the vineyard is so steep here that it must be worked entirely by hand as tractors would be dangerous to useA cool and highly restrained nose reluctantly offers up its array of citrus, tidal pool, quinine and oyster shell. The exceptionally rich, even opulent, medium-weight plus flavors also brim with sappy dry extract on the mineral-driven, powerful and remarkably long finish. This is perhaps slightly less elegant than it typically is, but it is seriously good all the same. Buy it.

The 2021 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots is superb, unwinding in the glass with aromas of orange zest, white flowers, fresh mint, buttery pastry and clam liquor, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and satiny palate with a sweet core of fruit, a bright spine of tangy acidity and a long, orange oil-inflected finish. 2027-2050

Pale lemon yellow. There is an elegance to the bouquet without lack of power. There is no sign of any oak. Definite drive, a little ripe citrus, a few waves of flavour, nicely put together with a citrus and iodine finish. Drink from 2027-2032.

The 2021 Côte de Bouguerots is another absolutely beautiful example of this vintage. The refined bouquet wafts from the glass in a complex mix of fresh lime, green apple, pear, a gorgeous base of limestone, beeswax and a floral topnote redolent of apple blossoms. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with wonderful mineral undertow, lovely balance and grip, a fine spine of acidity and a long, focused and nascently complex finish. There is a veneer of reserve here that I find extremely promising. (Drink between 2027-2065)