Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkap, Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm 2005

Each of the lots presented to me on this occasion had been chosen with uncanny insight to occupy its particular place in the Prum scheme, representing a steady increase in quality that did not stop when one came to a 2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Gold Capsule A.P.#23, also destined to be auctioned. The nose exhibits a degree of botrytis ennoblement - honey, hints of white raisin, and apple jelly - as well as an oily-rich texture typical of Beerenauslese. But this too draws on a reservoir of bright, juicy, fresh fruit. Mango, pineapple, caramelized apple, apricot preserve, vanilla, white raisin, warm honey, and brown spice all contribute to the abundant richness on display here, yet there are fine notes of flowers and mineral salts and a lovely sense of lift despite such far-gone ripeness, botrytis, and sheer density as this likely 50-year wine displays. "This fruit exhibited a fresh botrytis," says Prum, which he associates with its managing - while strikingly ripe and viscous - never to become at all broad, fat, or obvious.

Silky, harmonious and refined, with apricot, apple, lime and mineral aromas and flavors matched to a light-weight frame. Balanced, with its hidden structure evident in the tanginess on the finish and the long, lingering aftertaste of baked apple. Puts it all together. Best from 2009 through 2030.