Vosne Romanée Les Beauxmonts, Domaine Georges Noellat 2015

A lavish, dramatic wine, the 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts (tasted blind) bursts with aromas of incense, spices, orange rind and ripe dark fruits. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and sapid, with a generous core of ripe fruit, melting tannins and an open-knit, seductive profile, concluding with a fragrant finish. If there's a criticism, it's that this is a little confectionary, likely from its time in new oak. 2020 - 2030

Dense and deep crimson. Round and substantial. Lots of undertow and great grunt. Fruit just about trumps tannins at the moment but only just. Super-intense and with such a delicate hand on the tiller. Racy and energetic but with admirable depth. Lovely and clean and direct.