Malartic Lagravière 2012

This large estate of 131 acres has been run brilliantly by a Belgian family, the Bonnies since their acquisition a number of years ago. The quality of the white and red have soared to exceptional heights, and this is certainly still one of the more realistically priced wines of Pessac-Léognan and classified crus. The 2012 is a beauty, with a dense ruby/purple color, a fabulously plush, opulent texture and medium to full-bodied flavors of cassis, spicy earth and blueberry. Quite rich, yet light on its feet, this is an absolutely textbook Pessac-Lèognan, with wonderfully velvety tannins. Drink it now, or drink it in 25 years. This is a brilliant wine. Drink 2015-2040.

The 2012 Malartic-Lagravière comprises a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. It has a precocious bouquet laden with black cherry, blueberry and red plum fruit, hints of cedar and graphite developing with aeration. It is still very backward, a bit stubborn at the moment so decanting is advised if you intend to broach this in its youth. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, quite structured tannin, firm but well balanced and far more freshness and fruit intensity on the finish compared to the 2013. This is an excellent 2012 although it still needs three or four more years in bottle. Tasted at the vertical tasting at Malartic-Lagravière.

This shows lots of precision and focus with blueberry, mineral and dried fruit character. Full body, fine tannins and a silky finish. Refined and composed. Better in 2019.

Very dark crimson. Smells rather leafy and Cabernet-dominated. Aromatic, then very sweet, then firm and with sandy tannins on the finish. Angular and more long term than many. Ambitious. There is great polish here. Calm finish (no heat). I admire the dryness and appetising, rather than palate-drying, tannins. Grown-up wine.