Unico, Vega Sicilia 1991

Served at Chateau Gruaud Larose (as something different!) this is a brilliant Unico with lascivious black fruits, creme de menthe and melted chocolate decorating the nose that just soars from the glass. The palate is full-bodied with ripe blackberry, cassis, macerated dark cherries, powerful and swarthy but very fine poise on the velutinous finish that almost overwhelms the senses with pleasure. Sensational. Drink 2015-2030+ Tasted Marcy 2010.

The 1991 Único comes through as very classical in a Bordeaux sense (it contains 15% Cabernet Sauvignon); it's serious, austere, with contained ripeness, starting to show more tertiary notes and some development, really very good. It's a wine that could evolve in the style of the 1953, which is reminiscent of the 1985, but one gear below. The grapes were picked from the 30th of September in very warm weather, but the season saw enough rain. Very good. 2,222 magnums. Artwork from Francisco Iturrino.

The current release of Vega Sicilia’s flagship offering, the 1991 Unico Reserva, will have to satisfy lovers of this great Spanish red until the 1994 is released in 2005. The 1991 is a gorgeous, deep ruby/purple-colored, remarkably youthful effort offering sweet vanilla notes intertwined with black currants, cherry liqueur, flowers, spice box, and tobacco leaves. Full-bodied and intense, with sweet tannin, outstanding density as well as purity, and a layered mouthfeel, this unevolved 1991 needs another 3-4 years of cellaring; it should last for 20-25 years. It’s a wine of great elegance as opposed to power