Trotanoy 2023

The 2023 Trotanoy is showing brilliantly, wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, rose petals, baking chocolate, spices and pencil shavings, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and elegantly muscular palate that's rich, dense and powerful, while remaining unusually sensual and harmonious for the standards of an estate that can sometimes produce hulking, monolithic wines. Concentrated and penetrating, it's an especially strong performer this year.

The 2023 Trotanoy was picked September 7 to 19. This sample was curiously reticent on the nose. Usually, Trotanoy comes out and shows it means business, yet here, it demands coaxing and only reluctantly offers brambly black fruit and black truffle shavings. The palate is medium-bodied, framed by beautifully chiseled tannins. Very precise and focused. Here, Trotanoy steps up a gear, and it delivers an exquisitely tensile, symmetric finish. Maybe the nose had just closed down on the day of my visit? I'll be prudent for now, but this could merit a much higher score if the aromatics coalesce and gain intensity.

Entirely crafted from Merlot and matured in 50% new oak, the 2023 Trotanoy has turned out superbly, revealing a perfumed, complex bouquet of dark berries, rose petals, incense and pencil shavings. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and deep, it is built around a multidimensional core of fruit framed by structured tannins, yet it remains remarkably sensual and velvety in texture. It may well surprise after several years in the cellar. Drink 2030-2050

The focus and polish are so enticing, reminding me of a seamless piece of the finest cashmere. Medium to full body with blackberry, tapenade and dark-chocolate character. A hint of salt at the end. 100% merlot.