Suenen Oiry BV21

Suenen’s latest NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Oiry (2021 base), vinified equal parts in stainless steel and oak (about a third new, mostly from Francois Frères), is based on the 2021 vintage and includes 50% perpetual blend dating back to 2013. Disgorged in July 2024 with four grams per liter dosage, it is unfurling from the glass to reveal aromas of white flowers, lemon zest and green apple. Tensile and precise, complemented by pillowy mousse, it’s laden with bright, almost electric acids in the spirit of the year and concludes with a long, saline finish. It’s a superb introduction to the estate and rare opportunity to taste Oiry in isolation.